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Motoz - Tyre Selection

Tyres make the biggest difference to performance for the least expense.

We hope this information will help you choose the right tyres so you can get the best out of your equipment.  

Terrain - Application

H/T = Hard Terrain (gravel roads, rocky fire trails, hard pack desert and sand)

I/T = Intermediate and mixed Terrain

I-H/T = Intermediate to Hard Terrain

I-S/T = Intermediate to Soft Terrain.

S/T = Soft terrain (loam, sandy loam, pine forest, clay)

Tyre Construction - Heavy Duty - Medium Duty - Light Weight.

Tractionator Series is very Heavy Duty and designed for long wear life. Tyres in the Tractionator series have:

-Super Heavy Duty ply construction

-Puncture Resistant casing

-Reinforced sidewalls

-Large Rim Protector

-Anti Chuncking Compounds.

Any tyre with the word Tractionator in its name is suitable for harsh conditions like desert racing, multi day enduro or long distance adventure riding. Tyres in the Tractionator series include Tractionator (H/T), Tractionator Enduro (I/T) and Tractionator X-Circuit (I-H/T). Tractionator Enduro S/T is in development.

Tracula Series is Medium to Heavy Duty and designed for natural terrain circuits, Hare Scrambles endurocross and enduro sprints. Tracula series have:

-Puncture Resistant Casing

-Reinforced Side Walls

-Large Rim Protector.

Terrapactor Series is light weight and designed for motocross. Click here for quick selection chart

Sizing

To assist with size choice, please refer to this size guide, and always follow the vehicle manufacturer's recommendations:

* Refers to 2 Stroke motorcycles

 
Mini
125*-250cc
250*-450cc
450-550cc
550-650cc
650/690 Adventure
                                                                Tractionator (Hard Terrain)
90/90-21
 
 
110/100-18
 
    
 
 
130/90-18 (120/100-18)
 
 
    
      
140/80-18
 
   
       
   
   
110/90-19
   
 
   
   
     
   
     
   
   
     
     
                                Tractionator Enduro (Intermediate and Mixed Terrain)
80/100-21
 
 
 
   
110/100-18 (110/90-18)
     
 
     
 
 
120/90-18
  
   
  
   
  
140/80-18 (130/80-18)
   
   
       
 
110/90-19
  
   
 
 
     
  
     
  
   
     
     
                              Tractionator X Circuit (Intermediate to Hard Terrain)
80/100-21
  
 
       
  
110/100-18 (100/100-18)
   
        
     
  
    
120/90-18 (110/100-18)
    
     
250cc*
   
  
   
100/90-19
   
      
   
  
   
110/90-19
    
  
  
  
130/90-18 (120/100-18)
   
   
450cc
    
    
70/100-19
  
    
     
   
   
70/100-17
   
     
    
   
   
60/100-14
    
     
    
    
      
90/100-16
     
     
      
    
     
90/100-14
  
       
     
   
    
80/100-12
   
  
    
  
   
                  
          
         
     
    
    
      
    Tracula (Intermediate to Soft Terrain)
90/90-21
Use Tractionator X-Circuit 80/100-21
    
110/100-18
    
                  
      
   
     
130/90-18 (120/100-18)
   
        
     
     
100/90-19
      
       
        
     
      
110/90-19
   
               
      
       

 

Why do sizes vary between manufacturers?

Some people say it is because some manufacturers measure from the outside of the tread, and others measure the outside of the sidewalls. This is incorrect.

Different countries have different standards. New bikes are fitted with tyres from different tyre manufacturers from all over the world. Sizing is confused with enduro tyres because the bikes/tyres need road legal status for Europe. The standard in Europe requires that road legal tyres be tested on road rims (which are wider than rims used for off road).

The result is the size marking on the tyre sounds big (the sidewalls have been stretched apart on the wider rim) but the tyre is not so big when mounted on a narrower off road rim (the sidewalls have been pulled closer together).

One example is 140/80-18 used on many KTMs. The European road legal standards (ECE R 75) require that this size be tested on a 3.5 inch rim (it must measure 140/80-18 when mounted on a 3.5 inch rim). When mounted on the KTM 2.15 inch rim the tyre actually measures somewhere between 130/90 and 120/90 (not 140/80) because the sidewalls have been pulled closer together.

Motoz try to cater for most events and applications by offering their enduro patterns in at least one 19 inch rear size for riders who use their motocross bikes in enduro and desert events. Motoz tyres have been designed with a variety of Crown Radius Sections to suit the applications and terrain. CRS is the shape/curve of the tyre across the tread that comes in contact with the terrain, and several benefits have been obtained by applying flatter CRS in some applications.

Is it the same as section profile?

No. For example you can have a flat CRS on a high profile 100 series tyre, and a flat CRS on a low profile 80 series tyre; same CRS, different tyre profile. CRS and Profile CRS can be grouped in three basic catagories, which for simplicity we will label flat, round and pointed (we have many different CRS's across our range but these three examples explain the idea). If you imagine a rugby ball and a soccer ball and how they sit on the ground; a flat CRS might be like a rugby ball on its side, round CRS might be like the soccer ball, and the pointy CRS might be like the rugby ball standing on its end. Whilst inflation pressure will vary behavior, CRS will significantly influence performance and each has distinct characteristics.

Flat CRS = wide flat tread - big footprint - good for straight line hook up and big horse power applications - long wearing.
Round CRS = smoothly curved tread section extending partially up the sidewalls - good for easy progressive cornering.
Pointed CRS = tread section with a narrow aggressive bite in the centre and extending up the side walls - good for very fast very tight cornering.

Why is it important?

Because it influences drive traction, cornering traction and wear. A specific CRS matched to a specific application can give additional traction where it is most needed, or increase wear life to avoid tyre changes during an enduro, or for long adventure touring. A poorly designed CRS to an application can result in early wear. If the rider "knows" what CRS their tyres are, the rider will be better able to "predict" the behavior of the bike in various conditions, or make an informed choice to sacrifice wear for performance or visa versa.

The behavior of each will have different performance characteristics when the bike is vertical or at various lean angles. In very basic terms:

Flat CRS on the rear will have good drive traction because it makes a big foot print when the bike is vertical (it will hook up well).
Traction will decrease as the lean angle is increased, which will cause a loss of traction at extreme lean angle as the tyre reaches the outer tread.
It will also make the bike harder to "tip" into a corner (the bike will not roll from side to side easily). If the terrain is soft, like desert racing conditions, this CRS can keep traction as lean angle increases because the terrain, the desert sand, moves under the weight of the bike, so the tyre is in effect always flat against the terrain.

A big problem in the past (even now) is because many enduro tyres are just a motorcross tyre with a different tread pattern or compound (but the CRS can't handle fast tight cornering in hard terrain or rocky conditions).

Round CRS will do everything OK (average). It will hook up OK and tip into corners OK (bike will lean from side to side smoothly), but because the foot print is never that large, loss of traction in corners will increase with weight, speed and lean angle. Wear will be OK, but will wear quicker in long distance straight running.

Pointed CRS will wear quickly in hard terrain (because of the sharper foot print in contact with the terrain when the bike is vertical), and hook up less well in harder terrain, but it will "tip" very quickly when cornering (the bike will change direction quickly and easily in tight corners will tend to fall into

corners), and will have increased traction at more extreme lean angles (especially in hard terrain).

This can be a good tool in dry conditions when the track is loaded with 180 degree corners, or for lighter enduro bikes (small bore 2 strokes and modern 250cc 4 strokes) for tight twisting narrow single trails. It also helps (on the rear) to get the bike into a power slide to create more drive around a flat corner.

Some things to consider when choosing the rear tyre are:

Flat CRS will give longer wear and hook up well on hill climbs (if the bike is kept vertical) and straights, but steer slower which can add to rider fatigue if there are long twisty sections like tight single trails. If there is a lot of long straight high speed sections, it is less of an issue.

A pointed CRS will give quick handling and reduce rider fatigue, but the rear will tend to follow ruts if wheel spinning up a hill (to the point where the rear will follow the rut, which can cause the rider to drop the bike). If you have chosen this CRS, keep away from the ruts.

Choosing tyres for an Enduro or a long trail/adventure ride is more difficult because the terrain is usually more varied and impossible to predict. In this instance tyre selection is focused on what tyre will do everything (not leave you stranded with loss of traction on a steep hill climb or sandy section). Tractionator enduro rears are specifically designed to perform in extreme variations of terrain especially on the east coast of Australia which is hilly and steep and littered with creek crossings, and also provide sure grip under heavy braking or engine braking into tight corners (something critical for larger 4 strokes).

Wear


Motoz tyres have very deep tread to give good wear/mileage. This means the tread blocks in some tyres may flex around a bit when the tyre is new, then settle down to their best performance after a while (after 200-300kms, depending on application). The performance will drop away quickly towards the end of tyre life due to the tread block reinforcing contacting the terrain. This is not a big issue because riders seeking peak performance replace tyres long before the extreme end of tyre life.

Inflation Pressures


All other off road tyres are made using mostly synthetic rubber, reclaimed rubber and chemical fillers. This results in tyres that are very hard and feel lifeless. To get feeling and traction, riders reduce inflation pressures (sometimes down to 8psi – great if you want to repair punctures all day).

Because Motoz' rubber is 100% natural, the inherent reflex, deflection and elasticity provides feeling and feedback without the need to reduce inflation pressures too much. This means inflation pressures for off road conditions can be realistic and punctures become infrequent or non-existent. In mixed terrain we suggest starting off with higher pressures (perhaps 14-18 p.s.i range) until you get used to them, or in very slippery terrain slightly less (12-14 p.s.i).

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